Airlines Olympic, Iérou Lóhou 9 tel 02410/24 571. Cronus-Aegean Airlines, Ethelondón Dhodhekanisíon 20 tel 02410/24 400 or 25 444.

Bookshop Second Storey Books, Amarándou 24, Neohóri, has a large stock of used English paper backs; open all year, normal shop hours. For new books, try News Stand at Grigoríou Lambráki 23.

Car rental Prices at non-international chains are fairly standard at ?41-44 per day, but can be bargained down to about ?32-35 a day, all-inclusive, out of peak season and/or for long periods. More flexible outfits, all in the New Town, include Alamo/National, 28-Oktovríou 18 tel 02410/73 570; Drive, Avstralías 2 tel 02410/68 243; Just/Ansa, Mandhilar?70 tel 02410/31 811; Kosmos, Papaloúka 31 tel 02410/74 374; Orion, Yeoryíou Leóndos 36 tel 02410/22 137; and Payless, Íonos Dhragoúmi 29 tel 02410/26 586.

Exchange Most conventional bank branches are near Platía Kyprou in Neohóri, plus there are various exchange bureaux keeping long hours. At other times use the cash dispensers of the Commercial Bank (branch in the Old Town too), Alpha Bank or National Bank (also Old Town branch).

Ferry agents DANE, Avstralías 92 tel 02410/43 150, to Pireás via select Dodecanese; Dodhekanisos Navtiliaki, Avstralías 3, by Shell station tel 02410/70 590, for catamaran to most Dodecanese islands; Inspiration, Akt?Sakhtoúri 4 tel 02410/24 294 (base of main ferry dock), for most G&A boats to Dodecanese and Cyclades, plus DANE sailings; Kyriakoulis Maritime, Neoríon dock tel 02410/78 052, for hydrofoils to Kós and all intervening islands; Kouros, Karpáthou tel 02410/24 377, and Kydon, Ethelondón Dhodhekanisíon 14 tel 02410/23 000, between them act for both companies plying routes to Cyprus; LANE, Alexándhrou Dhiákou 38 tel 02410/33 607, to Crete via Hálki, Kárpathos, Kássos. Weekly tourist office departure-schedule handouts are deeply unreliable, and even get the addresses shown above wrong; authoritative sailing information is available at the limenarhío (port police), on Mandhráki esplanade near the post office.

Internet cafés The most central and competitive of several are Rock Style , Dhimokratías 7, opposite the stadium www.rockstyle.gr , and Mango Bar , karelas@rho.forthnet.gr .

Laundries House of Laundry, Erythro?Stavro?2, Neohóri; Star, Kost?Palam?4-6, behind New Market; Wash & Go, Plátonos 33, Old Town.

Motorbike rental Low-volume scooters will make little impact on Rhodes; sturdier Yamaha 125s, suitable for two people, start at about ?20 a day. In the Old Town, Mandar Moto at Dhimosthénous 2, cnr Platía Evréon Martyron, has a large stable of medium-sized scooters suitable for short jaunts. Recommended outlets in Neohóri include Margaritis, Ioánni Kazoúli 23, with a wide range of late models up to 500cc, plus mountain bikes; or (to roll out in style) Rent a Harley at 28-Oktovríou 80 - classic models for two riders start at a whopping ?97 per day.

Post office Main branch with outgoing mail and poste restante on Mandhráki harbour; open Mon-Fri 7.30am-8pm.

Scuba diving Waterhoppers, Trident and Dive Med all tout for business at Mandhráki quay; however, days out are expensive (?39.70 for boat transfer and one dive, ?20.60 for second dive) and you're restricted to one small site at Thérmes Kallithéas.

Travel agencies Recommended in the Old Town is Castellania, Evripídhou 1-3, cnr Platía Ippokrátous tel 02410/75 860, which can arrange all domestic air tickets, both domestic and international ferries, and also discount scheduled and charter flights abroad. In Neohóri, Visa Travel Club at Grigóri Lambráki 54 tel 02410/33 282, www.visatravelclub.gr , and Contours at Ammohóstou 9 tel 02410/36 001 are also worth contacting. There is no central outlet for hydrofoil tickets to Marmaris in Turkey - comparison shopping is recommended.