The Old Town formerly had a well-deserved reputation for being tomb-silent at night; this has changed drastically since the late 1990s, with an entire alley (Miltiádhou) off Apéllou given over to a half-dozen loud music bars and clubs, frequented almost exclusively by Greeks. This is just appetizers for the estimated two hundred foreigner-patronized bars and clubs in Neohóri, where theme nights and various other gimmicks predominate. They are found mostly along the streets and alleys bounded by Alexándhrou Dhiákou, Orfanídhou, Lohago?Fanouráki and Nikifórou Mandhilar?

Sedate by comparison, Ministry of Culture-approved folk dances (June-Oct Mon, Wed, Fri 9.20pm; ?10.30) are presented with live accompaniment by the Nelly Dimoglou Company, performed in the landscaped "Old Town Theatre" off Andhroníkou, near Platía Ariónos. More of a technological extravaganza is the Sound and Light show, spotlighting sections of the city walls, staged in a garden just off Platía Rimínis. There's English-language narration nightly except Sunday, its screening time varying from 8.15pm to 10.15pm (?3.50).

Thanks to a large contingent from the local university, there are several year-round cinemas showing first-run fare indoors or open-air according to season and air-con capabilities. Choose from among the summer-only outdoor cinema by the Rodon Municipal Theatre, next to the town hall in Neohóri; the Metropol multiplex, southeast of the Old Town opposite the stadium, refurbished in 2001; and the nearby Pallas multiplex on Dhimokratías, refurbished in 1999.

Blue Lagoon Pool Bar, 25-Martíou 2, Neohóri. One of the better theme bars, in this case a "desert island" with palm trees, waterfalls, live turtles and parrots, a shipwrecked galleon - and taped music. Open March-Oct 8.30am-3am.

Caf?Besara, Sofokléous 11-13, Old Town. Congenial breakfast caf?low-key boozer run by an Australian lady, with interesting mixed clientele and live music some nights.

Christos' Garden/To Dhiporto, Dhilberáki 59, Neohóri. This combination art-gallery/bar/caf?occupies a carefully restored old house and courtyard with pebble-mosaic floors throughout. Incongruously classy for the area.

Colorado Entertainment Centre, Orfanídhou 57, cnr Akt?Miaouli, Neohóri. Triple venue: "pub" with live in-house band (rock covers), "club" with taped sounds, and quiet upstairs chill-out bar.

El Divino, Alexándhrou Dhiákou 5, Neohóri. Very classy, Greek-frequented "music bar" with garden seating and the usual range of coffees and alcohol. Open June-Oct.

Mango Bar, Platía Dhoriéos 3, Old Town. Piped music and a variety of drinks at this durable bar on an otherwise quiet plaza; also a good source of breakfast after 8am, served under a plane tree.

O'Reilly's, Apolloníou Rodhíou 61, Neohóri. Irish theme pub which serves Irish draught and claims to have live music nightly.

Resalto, Plátonos 6, opposite the mosque. Live Greek rebétika and laïk?sounds, rather cheaper than nearby rival Caf?Chantant . Weekends only in low season.

Iy Rogmi tou Khronou, Platía Ariónos. Taped music (not house or techno) at a reasonable level and a congenial crowd make this newly opened bar worth a look.
Rolóï, Orféos 1, Old Town. The Baroque clocktower erected by Ahmet Fetih Pasha in 1857 is now the focus of possibly the most exclusive caf?bar in the Old Town. Admission charge to climb the tower, and steeply priced drinks, but you are paying for the terrific view.

Sticky Fingers, Anthoúla Zérvou 6, Neohóri. Long-lived music bar with reasonable drinks; live rock several nights weekly from 10pm onwards. Fri & Sat only off-season.